I was hoping that someone can give me some tips on something with my car, I have a 1995 chevy beretta and I know the wiring in the car is messed up to some degree (it came that way) such as if i use the back window defrost my auto locks wont work until i shut the car off and restart it….the clock on my radio works once in a while it comes on and goes off whenever it wants unless i leave the car off but just turn the key back…but anywho here is my question
a few years back I notice my windshield defroster no longer works when i turn the knob for it, the heat works just fine it could be warmer though not sure how to fix that or how to fix the defroster for the front and I was wondering if anyone can tell me how to fix it or if it can be fix or know of someone thats in or close to the plymouth indiana are that can take a look at it and possibly fix it?
1. If just the Heater is blowing no matter where the selector is positioned then you have a control issue. This is Vacuum Controlled. Make sure you have Vacuum going to the selector. If you hear a hissing sound from under the dash you have a leak. If you have Vacuum going to the selector then it’s not working. Get 1 from a Salvage Yard.
Check your thermostat, sounds like it might be stuck in the open position. I’ve bought new ones over the years that had that problem from the get go. They now have come out with a more expensive one, around 10-12 bux, that is supposed to last longer.
As for the electrical problems, these are always fun. The main harness might be 30-35 feet long, from the front to the rear of the car. When then clock goes off and comes back, does it lose time? If not, the problem is in the radio. If it does lose time, the problem is most likely a problem with the plug on the back of the radio. Your radio has two hot feeds, one for the radio that is switched off and on with the key. The hot for the clock isn’t switched and remains on all the time. You can usually find the pinout for the plugs on Google.
ok have a 99 Dodge ram truck 5.2 L motor my tranny has started acting up jerking and sometimes when you are trying to go it takes awhile before it kicks in then will give you whip lash *lol* also has a whining sound and now sounds like a belt is squealing when you step on the gas does anyone have any idea what may be wrong and how I fix it. The motor was just replaced at 120000 miles and tranny started acting up about a week after getting it back
Electronic Shift Solenoid or worse, Rebuild time.
just replaced the power steering pump, the renewed pressure seems to have blown a gasket on the right side of the rack and pinion. It appears that I need to change the complete R&P, can anyone provide some guidance as to how easy/difficult it is to replace by a do-it-yourself home mechanic?
If you Replace the Rack be sure to get a Remanufactured if you plan to keep the car as most have a Lifetime Warrenty and Used has at best 90 days. Racks are an easy job but do require some patience as you work from both inside the car and under. Without a good jack and stands it’s almost impossible, but can be done.
1. Raise the car and place the jackstands on the FRAME!!! or PADS.
2. Remove the tires and wheels.
3 Drain the Power Steering Fluid and disconnect the lines.
Now you can either do the inside work or continue on the under work.
Inside remove the necessary plastic to reveal the base of the Steering Column. You will see a sheild or rubber boot around the column and the Firewall. Remove to expose the connector joint or “Rag Joint”. This is held to the Rack inputshaft with 1 bolt thru a U clamp. Disconnect and Seperate. Your done inside.
A friend has a honda accord , mid 90s, that needs a drivers side front axle, pretty sure the cv joint is bad and its easier to just change axles. She said the rebuilt or new axle is about $60. Anyone changed one of these before?
It’s not all that bad of a job. 1st remove the keeper from the axle/hub. 2nd, jack up the front end and remove the tire. 3rd, remove the lower ball joint and the sway bar link. 4th, with a pry bar move the lower control arm from the spindle and the drive end from the hub assy. 5th, with a pry bar and SLIGHT pressure pop the driven end from the trans and it’s in your hand. To assemble reverse the proceedure.
I was curious if there was any known online (perferrably free)parts breakdown or manuels, I am presently working on rear differentail on 98 GMC Safari Van and think the Pinion flange . I noticed it is pulled away from the housing.
Just look in the links section. We have a link to them there.