Auto Repair Articles

Generally to diagnose this, I apply power to the fuel pump from under the car at the fuel pump wiring harness using a Power Probe while having a fuel pressure gauge hooked up so I can see if it is working. (in 90% of these cases it is the fuel pump and not the relay, this is why I check the pump first). Also, while your under the car and at the fuel pump wiring harness. You can have someone cycle the ignition key and check for power going to the pump from the relay. If you do not see power coming from the relay, then the next step is to check for power going to the relay. If you have power going to the relay by not coming from it(when you cycle the key) then the relay is bad and will need to be replaced.

Reference Link : How to use a Multi-meter

Question:

 I have a 1993 Ford E-150 Van with a 351 cu. V8 engine. What can I do to get better gas mileage? this is a new motor and every thing is all new . iwant to get new tricks on how to get the best posibale mpg . is there anything that can be done to computer?ect…???

Answer:

Make sure you have good tires and alignment as it can cause drag.

Excellent Fuel Saving Tips

You can buy an aftermarket computer chip, have it put on a dyno and and reprogrammed to leaner setting to help fuel mileage but you will loose performance when doing this.

You can install a cold air intake that will help.

Or you can buy a programmer and change things yourself. 

Question:

I have a 1992 GMC Sierra with a 5.7 liter engine that started acting up while driving down the interstate. It was running fine, and all of a sudden began sputtering and “popping”, and losing power. I was down to around 1/4 tank of gas, so I stopped and filled the tank. I thought it might be bad gas (water), so I went to a parts house and bought some “Heet” and some Chemtool brand fuel system cleaner and added it to the tank. It has done “some good” at driving speed, but still “chugs” when idling. I also changed the spark plugs, which did not make much difference. Can you give me some hints as to what the problem may be? My next step is to pull and check the distributor cap and rotor for damage, carbon, etc.
 

Answer:

There are so many different things that can cause this unfortunate situation, but eliminating some of them may help you narrow it down.

Checking the distributor cap for corrosion/burnt etc is good place to start.

Then test fuel pressure. Needs to be around 16 psi for TBI. Make sure it does not drop when accelerating. If not, replace the fuel pump and filter.

Then I would check, replace the ignition module (not expensive) as they tend to fail/break down often.

On a rare occasion the coil can start to break down and cause the same thing. Call around on this one and you can pick one up for around $16.00.

Worse case scenario, it could be a clogged converter and they are expensive for this model vehicle because of its size. You can test the back pressure with a gauge that screws into the O2 Sensor port and you should see no more than 1.5 psi

If you smell gas don’t hesitate as it may catch fire. This is a safety issue and has been recalled for repair for the 2004 Olds Alero.

Recall Date

MAR 12, 2007

Model Affected

2004 OLDSMOBILE ALERO

Description

CERTAIN DELPHI FUEL PRESSURE REGULATORS, P/NOS. FP10020-11B1, FP10026-11B1, AND FP10027-11B1, SOLD AFTER JANUARY 9, 2007, AS AFTERMARKET EQUIPMENT FOR VARIOUS PASSENGER VEHICLES LISTED ABOVE. THE UNIVERSAL PRESSURE REGULATORS (UPR) WERE PRODUCED WITHOUT AN O’RING AND RETAINER.

Consequence

FUEL MAY LEAK, POSSIBLY RESULTING IN A FIRE.

Remedy

DELPHI WILL NOTIFY OWNERS AND REPLACE THE UPR FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN DURING MARCH 2007. OWNERS CAN CONTACT DELPHI AT 877-411-8770.

Potential Units Affected

742

Notes

DELPHI