Nov 272009

I was hoping that someone can give me some tips on something with my car, I have a 1995 chevy beretta and I know the wiring in the car is messed up to some degree (it came that way) such as if i use the back window defrost my auto locks wont work until i shut the car off and restart it….the clock on my radio works once in a while it comes on and goes off whenever it wants unless i leave the car off but just turn the key back…but anywho here is my question
a few years back I notice my windshield defroster no longer works when i turn the knob for it, the heat works just fine it could be warmer though not sure how to fix that or how to fix the defroster for the front and I was wondering if anyone can tell me how to fix it or if it can be fix or know of someone thats in or close to the plymouth indiana are that can take a look at it and possibly fix it?

1. If just the Heater is blowing no matter where the selector is positioned then you have a control issue. This is Vacuum Controlled. Make sure you have Vacuum going to the selector. If you hear a hissing sound from under the dash you have a leak. If you have Vacuum going to the selector then it’s not working. Get 1 from a Salvage Yard.


Check your thermostat, sounds like it might be stuck in the open position.  I’ve bought new ones over the years that had that problem from the get go.  They now have come out with a more expensive one, around 10-12 bux, that is supposed to last longer.
As for the electrical problems, these are always fun.  The main harness might be 30-35 feet long, from the front to the rear of the car.  When then clock goes off and comes back, does it lose time?  If not, the problem is in the radio.  If it does lose time, the problem is most likely a problem with the plug on the back of the radio.  Your radio has two hot feeds, one for the radio that is switched off and on with the key.  The hot for the clock isn’t switched and remains on all the time.  You can usually find the pinout for the plugs on Google.
Nov 222009

ok have a 99 Dodge ram truck 5.2 L motor my tranny has started acting up jerking and sometimes when you are trying to go it takes awhile before it kicks in then will give you whip lash *lol* also has a whining sound and now sounds like a belt is squealing when you step on the gas does anyone have any idea what may be wrong and how I fix it. The motor was just replaced at 120000 miles and tranny started acting up about a week after getting it back


Electronic Shift Solenoid or worse, Rebuild time.

Nov 202009

just replaced the power steering pump, the renewed pressure seems to have blown a gasket on the right side of the rack and pinion. It appears that I need to change the complete R&P, can anyone provide some guidance as to how easy/difficult it is to replace by a do-it-yourself home mechanic?


If you Replace the Rack be sure to get a Remanufactured if you plan to keep the car as most have a Lifetime Warrenty and Used has at best 90 days. Racks are an easy job but do require some patience as you work from both inside the car and under. Without a good jack and stands it’s almost impossible, but can be done.
1. Raise the car and place the jackstands on the FRAME!!! or PADS.
2. Remove the tires and wheels.
3  Drain the Power Steering Fluid and disconnect the lines.
Now you can either do the inside work or continue on the under work.
Inside remove the necessary plastic to reveal the base of the Steering Column. You will see a sheild or rubber boot around the column and the Firewall. Remove to expose the connector joint or “Rag Joint”.  This is held to the Rack inputshaft with 1 bolt thru a U clamp. Disconnect and Seperate. Your done inside.
Nov 152009

A friend has a honda accord , mid 90s, that needs a drivers side front axle,   pretty sure the cv joint is bad and its easier to just change axles.   She said the rebuilt or new axle is about $60.   Anyone changed  one of these before?


It’s not all that bad of a job. 1st remove the keeper from the axle/hub. 2nd, jack up the front end and remove the tire. 3rd, remove the lower ball joint and the sway bar link. 4th, with a pry bar move the lower control arm from the spindle and the drive end from the hub assy. 5th, with a pry bar and SLIGHT pressure pop the driven end from the trans and it’s in your hand. To assemble reverse the proceedure.

Nov 102009

Working at an auto body repair shop, I specialize in custom paint jobs for many models of high-end vehicles, including Lexus, BMW, Porsche, and Mercedes. I am ashamed to admit that our prices are absolutely off-the-wall, even though I know that other Orange County paint chip repair specialists charge a ton more than we do. You may ask how our prices are outrageous if we indeed are the cheapest in the area. The prices of our car paint repair services are bogus because there are better, more inexpensive products available.

I suppose that now it is time for me to let you in on the secret. I feel guilty. You see, I went with some friends to go rock-climbing in the desert a couple months ago. After we arrived at home, my friend Jack noticed paint damage on the front end of my Land Cruiser; this was a result of a short trip we took on a dirt road on our way to the mountain. I was irritated beyond belief. The shop’s calendar for the week was completely booked, and I knew I couldn’t just bring the SUV in for a quick repair job. We have a policy at the repair shop that our cars must be pristine if they are parked in the lot; the owners consider it advertising for the shop’s services. If our auto isn’t looking perfect, we have to park next door in the grocery store parking lot, which is a long hike to and from work.

At the automotive paint repair shop, we use a commercial paint repair kit – the Dr ColorChip(TM) Paint Chip Repair system. The kit was purchased by the shop’s owners from . We have had nothing but rave reviews for our work as a result of the commercial kits; I wondered if I could Read Entire Article

Nov 052009

I was curious if there was any known online (perferrably free)parts breakdown or manuels, I am presently working on rear differentail on 98 GMC Safari Van and think the Pinion flange . I noticed it is pulled away from the housing.


Just look in the links section. We have a link to them there.

Nov 032009

I’m replacing the tie rods: both inner, both outer and both threaded connectors.  A whole new assembly.  I have removed all of the old components except: the bolt attached to the arm that comes out of the steering box.  The nut is off, that was easy, I can even thread it back on.  Unfortunately, I have not been successful removing this 3-4 inch piece of metal (threaded on one end and a ball on the other end.  I have tried vise grips, oil, the bolt remover in a spray can from Murray’s.  The cylinder of metal is still in the hole.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Nov 012009

Started with a thud on right front if even hit a small bump in the road, and continually got worse. Now there is a rattle to accompany the thud, sounds like dice in a wooden box rattling around. Tires wear bad. Have had it in three times, mechanics cannot find anything to blame it on to fix. Very irritating noises especially when traveling down the highway. Starts feeling like it is thuding on my last nerve. Approx 72K on speedometer. Any ideas that I can send the mechanics on the right road to fix.


Check your Struts. That is what it sounds like to me. I copied this from a site: Car Struts are used on the front end of nearly every front-wheel- drive vehicle. They are more than shock absorbers and with a different name. A strut integrates numerous different suspension parts into one compact assembly. This includes:

The Coil Spring

The Spring Seats

The Shock Absorbers

The Strut Bearing

The Steering Knuckle

The shock absorber portion of the strut is the most commonly serviced part of the strut assembly.

As the strut is able to integrate the different components all into one assembly, a strut actually serves multiple purposes. With its spring it is able support the weight of the vehicle, while it is moving so that it can adapt to the road irregularities. The internal shock absorber will dampen the movement of the spring as it compresses and rebounds itself whilst the vehicle is traveling.

The strut housing serves as a structural part of the suspension system and it connects the upper strut bearing to the lower ball joint so that the entire assembly can then pivot when the steering wheel is turned.

For a complete check of your vehicle’s suspension system, you should have it thoroughly checked and inspected by a qualified service technician. Do not try and do it yourself if you don’t know what you are doing. A vehicle’s struts should be checked at least once a year, and it should usually be done in conjunction with the wheel alignment. Under any normal conditions, the shock absorber portion, which is the strut carriage, will wear out gradually and you may not even notice incremental losses in ride quality, or even handling and control. However, there are some signs that you vehicle may have worn struts and they might include the following:

Bottoming Out

Excessive Bouncing

Rocking Back and Forth

Drifting or Nose-Diving While Breaking


Cupping Wear on the Tires

If your vehicle needs a strut service, it may also be a good time to think about changing the coil springs. The reason for this is because they usually need to be removed when the struts are being changed, and this way you would save on labor costs by doing it all at the same time.